Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these tales and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
